Delhi Travel Guide
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Delhi is the first of three stops on The Boutique Golden Triangle 5 nights · with Agra and Jaipur · from £430 per person See it →Delhi is two cities wearing one name: the walled Mughal capital Shah Jahan built in 1648, and the government city the British laid out to its south. The Red Fort, Chandni Chowk's markets and Karim's kebabs belong to the first; Khan Market's restaurants and the wide avenues around India Gate belong to the second. The metro stitches the two together, and most visits move between them daily.
Quick Facts About Delhi
- Best Time to Visit: October to March (pleasant weather)
- Language: Hindi and English widely spoken
- Currency: Indian Rupee (₹) - approximately ₹95 per USD
- Population: 32+ million (NCR region)
- Climate: Hot summers, mild winters, monsoon July-September
- Time Zone: IST (UTC +5:30)
- Airport Code: DEL (Indira Gandhi International)
- Emergency: Police 100, Medical 108, Fire 101
How to Get to Delhi
By Air
Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL) is India's busiest airport, located 16 km southwest of central Delhi. Terminal 3 handles international and some domestic flights; Terminal 1 is domestic only.
Getting to the City:
- Metro: Airport Express Line to New Delhi Station in 20 minutes (₹60)
- Taxi: Pre-paid taxis ₹400-600 to central Delhi
- Uber/Ola: ₹300-500 depending on traffic
- Hotel Transfer: Typically ₹800-1200
By Train
Delhi has several major railway stations:
- New Delhi Station: Main hub, centrally located with metro access
- Old Delhi Station: Near Red Fort, serves northern routes
- Nizamuddin: Trains to south and east India
Popular Routes:
- Mumbai: 12-16 hours (₹1000-4000)
- Agra: 2-3 hours (₹200-800)
- Jaipur: 4-5 hours (₹400-1500)
By Road
Delhi connects to major highways:
- NH-44 to Chandigarh and Amritsar
- NH-48 to Jaipur and Mumbai
- Yamuna Expressway to Agra
Best Time to Visit Delhi
Winter (October to March)
- Temperature: 8-25°C
- Pros: Perfect sightseeing weather, festival season
- Cons: Peak prices, more crowds
Summer (April to June)
- Temperature: 35-45°C
- Pros: Lower prices, fewer tourists
- Cons: Extreme heat, dust storms
Monsoon (July to September)
- Temperature: 25-35°C
- Pros: Lush greenery, moderate prices
- Cons: Heavy rain, humidity, flooding
Where to Stay in Delhi
Connaught Place
Central location with excellent metro access. Walking distance to India Gate, shopping, and restaurants. Best for first-time visitors who want convenience.
Karol Bagh
Budget-friendly area with great street food and shopping. Well-connected by metro. Popular with domestic tourists and budget travelers.
Paharganj
Backpacker hub near New Delhi Railway Station. Rock-bottom prices, gritty atmosphere. Good for budget travelers who don't mind chaos.
South Delhi
Upscale residential areas like Greater Kailash and Defence Colony. Quieter, more expensive, further from main sights. This is where our own Delhi picks sit: Colonel's Retreat, a bed and breakfast in tree-lined Defence Colony open since 2008, Mizpah Delhi, a four-room Anglo-Indian bed and breakfast in Safdarjung Enclave, and Haveli Hauz Khas, a retired IAS couple's heritage mansion in Hauz Khas Enclave.
If you'd rather stay somewhere with a story to it, we keep a short list of boutique hotels in Delhi, places we'd send a friend.
What to see
Red Fort
UNESCO World Heritage site built by Shah Jahan in 1648. Massive red sandstone fortress with palaces and museums. Entry ₹35 Indians, ₹550-600 foreigners. UNESCO World Heritage site built by Shah Jahan in 1648. Massive red sandstone fortress with palaces and museums. Entry ₹35 Indians, ₹550-600 foreigners. Open daily.
Qutub Minar
World's tallest brick minaret at 72.5 metres. Beautiful Indo-Islamic architecture from the 13th century. Entry ₹35 Indians, ₹550-600 foreigners.
Humayun's Tomb
The Mughal garden tomb that gave the Taj Mahal its blueprint, with a fraction of the crowds. Entry ₹35 Indians, ₹550-600 foreigners.
Jama Masjid
One of India's largest mosques, with room for 25,000 worshippers. Climb the minaret for Old Delhi views (a further fee applies). Foreign visitors pay a charge at the gate, and visitors are kept out around midday prayers and before sunset. Dress modestly.
India Gate
The war memorial arch on Kartavya Path (formerly Rajpath). Free entry, best at sunset, when the lawns fill with families and ice-cream carts.
Lotus Temple
The Bahai house of worship, its roof formed of white marble petals; silence is kept inside. Free entry, open to all faiths. Closed Mondays.
Less visited
Agrasen ki Baoli
Ancient stepwell hidden near Connaught Place. Free entry, atmospheric, great for photos.
Lodhi Gardens
15th-century tombs amid landscaped gardens. Free entry, perfect for morning walks.
Hauz Khas Village
Medieval ruins meets trendy cafes and boutiques. Free to explore, great for sunset.
Nizamuddin Dargah
Sufi shrine with Thursday evening qawwali sessions. Cover your head, leave your shoes at the stalls, and sit where the crowd sits.
Delhi Food Guide
Must-Try Dishes
- Chole Bhature: Chickpea curry with fried bread (₹80-150)
- Butter Chicken: Creamy tomato curry, invented here (₹300-500)
- Paranthas: Stuffed flatbreads at Paranthe Wali Gali (₹50-100)
- Kebabs: Try Karim's near Jama Masjid (₹200-400)
- Chaat: Street snacks at Bengali Market (₹30-80)
Best Food Areas
- Chandni Chowk: The old city's food street; some stalls are in their sixth generation
- Khan Market: Upscale cafes and restaurants
- Bengali Market: Authentic chaat and sweets
- Connaught Place: Mix of all price points
Getting Around
Metro
Delhi Metro covers more than 250 stations across 10 lines. Tokens cost ₹11–64. Operates 5 AM to midnight. Safe, efficient, air-conditioned.
Auto-rickshaws
Negotiate fare before riding (₹30-150 typical). Use for short trips and areas without metro.
Uber/Ola
Reliable app-based taxis. Starting around ₹80-100 for short trips. Safer than street taxis.
Practical Tips
Safety
- Use metro or Uber/Ola instead of street taxis
- Beware of "closed today" scams near monuments
- Keep valuables secure in crowded areas
- Women: use women-only metro coaches when needed
Money
- Budget: ₹1500-2500/day
- Mid-range: ₹3000-5000/day
- Luxury: ₹8000+/day
- Tip 10% at restaurants, ₹20-50 for drivers
Health
- Drink only bottled water
- Start with mild street food
- Carry hand sanitizer
- Air quality can be poor in winter
How Many Days?
- 1 day: Red Fort, Jama Masjid, India Gate, Qutub Minar
- 2-3 days: Add Humayun's Tomb, Lotus Temple, food tours
- 4+ days: Add a day trip to Agra and the quieter sites: Agrasen ki Baoli, Lodhi Gardens, Hauz Khas
Day Trips
- Agra: Taj Mahal, 3-4 hours by car or 2 hours by train
- Jaipur: Pink City palaces, 5-6 hours by car
- Rishikesh: Yoga and rafting, 5-6 hours by car