Old Delhi street food, butter chicken origins, best biryani, top restaurants, vegetarian options, and food tours. Where and what to eat in Delhi.
Delhi's food scene spans 400-year-old recipes in Old Delhi's lanes to modern restaurants pushing Indian cuisine forward. Here's where to eat and what to try.
Old Delhi: The Street Food Capital
Old Delhi's labyrinthine lanes around Chandni Chowk contain India's most legendary street food concentration. These aren't trendy pop-ups — many stalls have been family-run for generations.
Paranthe Wali Gali
What: A narrow lane of paratha shops, each stuffing flatbreads with everything from potatoes to rabri (sweet milk).
Where: Off Chandni Chowk, near the Fatehpuri Mosque end
Try: Mixed stuffing parathas, served with curd and pickle
Cost: ₹80-150 per plate
Hours: 8 AM - 10 PM
The lane has been serving parathas since the 1870s. Tourist-heavy but still worth it for the experience.
Karim's
What: Legendary Mughlai restaurant, founded 1913 by descendants of Mughal court chefs
Where: Gali Kababian, near Jama Masjid Gate 1
Try: Mutton burra kebab, chicken jahangiri, seekh kebabs, mutton korma
Cost: ₹300-600 for a meal
Hours: 9 AM - 12:30 AM
The original location has the atmosphere. Multiple branches exist but skip them.
Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala
What: Chaat specialist, same recipe since 1940s
Where: Chandni Chowk main road, near Paranthe Wali Gali
Try: Dahi bhalle (lentil dumplings in yogurt), aloo tikki chaat
Cost: ₹60-100
Hours: 10 AM - 9 PM
The tangy, sweet, spicy layering defines Delhi chaat.
Old Famous Jalebi Wala
What: Fried sweet spirals, served hot from the wok
Where: Corner of Dariba Kalan and Chandni Chowk
Try: Jalebis with rabri (thickened milk)
Cost: ₹50-80 per serving
Hours: 8 AM - 9 PM
Watch them fry fresh batches. Best eaten immediately while crispy.
More Old Delhi Essentials
| Spot |
Famous For |
Location |
| Al Jawahar |
Biryani, kebabs |
Near Jama Masjid Gate 1 |
| Aslam Chicken Corner |
Butter chicken tikka |
Matia Mahal |
| Giani's |
Rabri faluda |
Chandni Chowk |
| Lotan Chole Kulche |
Chole kulche |
Daryaganj |
| Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala |
Spicy kachori |
Chandni Chowk |
Butter Chicken: Born in Delhi
Butter chicken was invented at Moti Mahal in Delhi in 1947. The story: tandoori chicken leftovers were simmered in tomato, butter, and cream to avoid waste. The result became India's most famous dish globally.
Where to try the original: Moti Mahal Delux, Daryaganj (the original location)
Modern interpretations:
- Indian Accent — deconstructed, upscale
- Gulati — rich and creamy, Pandara Road
- Punjabi by Nature — consistently good chain
Best Restaurants by Category
Fine Dining
Indian Accent — Modern Indian using local ingredients creatively. ₹4,000-6,000 per person. Lodhi Colony. Book weeks ahead.
Bukhara at ITC Maurya — Famous for dal bukhara and sikandari raan. Old-school luxury. ₹5,000+. Diplomatic Enclave.
Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya — Slow-cooked Awadhi cuisine. Biryani and kebabs. ₹4,000+.
Mid-Range Excellence
Gulati — North Indian classics done well. Butter chicken, mutton, kebabs. ₹800-1,200. Pandara Road.
Moti Mahal Delux — Original butter chicken. Classic Punjabi. ₹600-1,000. Daryaganj.
SodaBottleOpenerWala — Parsi food, quirky decor. ₹800-1,200. Khan Market.
Farzi Cafe — Modern Indian, molecular gastronomy touches. ₹1,000-1,500. CP.
Casual & Affordable
Saravana Bhavan — South Indian chain, reliable dosas and thalis. ₹200-400. Multiple locations.
Naivedyam — South Indian temple-style food. ₹300-500. Hauz Khas.
Andhra Bhawan Canteen — Government canteen, unlimited thali for ₹100. Ashoka Road.
Best Cafes
For Coffee
- Blue Tokai — India's best specialty roasters. Multiple locations.
- Third Wave Coffee — Reliable pour-overs. Hauz Khas, GK.
- Perch — Wine bar and coffee. Khan Market.
For Brunch & Ambience
- Elma's Bakery — European baked goods, breakfast. Hauz Khas.
- Cafe Turtle — Quiet, bookshop cafe. Khan Market.
- The Big Chill — Continental comfort food. Khan Market, CP.
Vegetarian Delhi
Delhi is vegetarian paradise. Options include:
South Indian: Saravana Bhavan (chain), Naivedyam (Hauz Khas), Sagar Ratna (multiple)
Rajasthani: Rajdhani (thali), Suruchi (thali at Sagar Ratna locations)
Street food: Chole bhature, pav bhaji, dosa, chaat — all vegetarian
Fine dining: Indian Accent has vegetarian tasting menu, Bukhara has dal bukhara
Most non-vegetarian restaurants have extensive vegetarian sections. You'll never struggle.
Food Areas by Neighbourhood
| Area |
Best For |
| Old Delhi/Chandni Chowk |
Street food, Mughlai, kebabs |
| Pandara Road |
North Indian restaurants |
| Khan Market |
Cafes, upscale dining |
| Hauz Khas |
Cafes, casual bars |
| Connaught Place |
Mix of everything |
| Defence Colony |
Modern restaurants, chains |
Food Tours
The best way to navigate Old Delhi's maze of food stalls is with a guide who knows what's fresh and safe.
Recommended Tours
Delhi Food Walks — Focused street food tours, Old Delhi specialty. ₹2,000-3,000.
Intrepid Urban Adventures — Well-organized, smaller groups. ₹2,500-4,000.
Airbnb Experiences — Various hosts, read reviews carefully. ₹1,500-3,500.
What to Expect
- 3-4 hours of walking and eating
- 8-12 different tastings
- Local guide with stories and context
- Usually starts morning (best for fresh food)
- Water provided, but bring more
DIY Alternative
Walk from Chandni Chowk metro to Jama Masjid, stopping at:
- Paranthe Wali Gali (parathas)
- Natraj Dahi Bhalle (chaat)
- Old Famous Jalebi Wala (sweets)
- Karim's (kebabs/biryani)
Tips for Eating in Delhi
Food safety:
- High-turnover stalls are safer (fresher food)
- Eat fully cooked, served-hot items
- Avoid pre-cut fruit from street vendors
- See our safety guide for details
Timing:
- Street food breakfast: 8-11 AM
- Lunch: 12:30-3 PM
- Dinner: 8-10:30 PM (restaurants), street food closes by 10 PM
Budget:
- Street food meal: ₹100-300
- Casual restaurant: ₹300-600
- Nice dinner: ₹800-1,500
- Fine dining: ₹3,000-6,000
Reservations: Essential for Indian Accent, Bukhara, and weekend dinners at popular spots. Book through Zomato app.
For neighbourhood dining options, see our neighbourhoods guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
What food is Delhi famous for?
Delhi is famous for butter chicken (invented here at Moti Mahal in 1947), chole bhature, parathas from Paranthe Wali Gali, kebabs from Old Delhi, chaat, and Mughlai cuisine. The city's food reflects its history as capital to multiple empires.
What is the best street food in Delhi?
Old Delhi has the best street food: parathas at Paranthe Wali Gali, kebabs at Karim's and Al Jawahar, chaat at Natraj Dahi Bhalle, jalebis at Old Famous Jalebi Wala. Chandni Chowk is Delhi's street food capital.
Where is the best biryani in Delhi?
Top picks: Karim's (Old Delhi) for Mughlai-style, Al Jawahar near Jama Masjid, Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya for upscale, Jawahar near Jama Masjid, and Biryani Blues for consistent modern versions.
Is Delhi vegetarian-friendly?
Extremely. Delhi has massive vegetarian options — South Indian restaurants like Saravana Bhavan, street food like chole bhature and chaat, Rajasthani thalis, and many restaurants are entirely vegetarian. You'll never struggle to find vegetarian food.
How much does a food tour cost in Delhi?
Food tours range from ₹2,000-5,000 (4-60) per person for 3-4 hours. Old Delhi tours are most popular. Tours include 8-12 tastings with a guide. Book through Viator, Airbnb Experiences, or Delhi Food Walks.
What is the single most iconic Delhi dish?
Chole bhature is probably Delhi's most defining dish. It's spiced chickpea curry served with deep-fried puffed bread, eaten for breakfast or lunch. The best versions are at Sita Ram Diwan Chand in Paharganj (₹80 / per plate) and Baba Nagpal Corner in Lajpat Nagar. Every neighbourhood has its own loyally defended favourite shop.
Where did butter chicken originate?
Butter chicken was invented in Delhi in 1947 by Kundan Lal Gujral at Moti Mahal in Daryaganj. He repurposed leftover tandoori chicken in a tomato-cream-butter gravy. Moti Mahal still operates at its original location on Netaji Subhash Marg, and a plate costs around ₹350-450 (-5). Several restaurants claim the invention, but Moti Mahal's claim is the most widely documented.
Is Delhi food mostly non-vegetarian?
Not at all. Delhi has a massive vegetarian food culture thanks to its large Punjabi, Marwari, and Jain communities. Dishes like chole bhature, aloo tikki, dahi bhalle, parathas, and rajma chawal are all vegetarian. Most restaurants in Delhi serve both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food, and many are exclusively 'pure veg' — look for green signs on storefronts.
What are the top 5 street foods to try in Delhi?
Golgappe (spiced water-filled crispy shells), chole bhature (chickpea curry with fried bread), aloo tikki (potato patties with chutneys), dahi bhalle (lentil dumplings in yoghurt), and paranthe from Paranthe Wali Gali. These five give you a solid cross-section of Delhi's street food range, from tangy and spicy to rich and filling.
How much does street food cost in Delhi?
Most street food plates in Delhi cost between ₹30-150 (/bin/sh.35-1.80). Golgappe and ram ladoo start at ₹30-40. Chole bhature runs ₹60-100. Kebab rolls cost ₹80-150. A full street food meal of 3-4 items rarely exceeds ₹200-300 (.50-3.60) per person. Old Delhi is generally cheaper than South Delhi for the same dishes.
Where is the best area for street food in Delhi?
Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi has the highest concentration of legendary street food stalls. Start at the Chandni Chowk metro station and walk towards Fatehpuri Mosque — nearly every lane has food worth stopping for. Other strong areas include Kamla Nagar (near Delhi University), Lajpat Nagar market, and CR Park for Bengali street food.
What are the must-eat restaurants in Old Delhi?
Karim's (mutton burra kebab, seekh kebab, since 1913), Al Jawahar (Mughlai food with a Jama Masjid view), Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala (yoghurt dumplings since the 1940s), and Paranthe Wali Gali shops (stuffed parathas since the 1870s). For sweets, Old Famous Jalebi Wala and Kuremal Kulfi Wale in Chawri Bazaar. Budget ₹200-500 per person at most spots.
Is it safe to eat street food in Old Delhi?
Yes, if you follow a few rules. Eat at stalls with high turnover — a crowd means fresh food. Avoid pre-cut fruit sitting in the open and skip anything with tap water ice. Stick to freshly cooked items. The busiest stalls in Chandni Chowk serve hundreds of people daily and maintain quality because their reputation depends on it.
What time should I go to Old Delhi for food?
Go between 10 AM and 2 PM for the widest selection. Paranthe Wali Gali is best before 11 AM when the oil is freshest. Karim's and Al Jawahar are good from noon through evening. Many sweet shops and chaat stalls open by 10 AM. Avoid going during Friday afternoon prayers near Jama Masjid, as many shops close temporarily.
Which Delhi neighbourhood has the best street food?
Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi, without question. The lanes between Chandni Chowk metro station and Jama Masjid hold the highest concentration of historic street food stalls in the city — Paranthe Wali Gali (parathas since the 1870s), Natraj (dahi bhalle since the 1940s), Old Famous Jalebi Wala, and dozens of unnamed chaat, kebab, and sweet shops. No other area comes close for variety and history.
Where should I eat if I'm staying in South Delhi?
Defence Colony market has a strong mix of modern Indian restaurants and street food stalls. Khan Market is nearby for upscale dining. CR Park (Chittaranjan Park) is Delhi's Bengali neighbourhood with excellent fish curry, momos, and sweets. Hauz Khas Village has cafes and bars with lakeside views. For a quick meal, SDA Market (near IIT Delhi) has cheap, reliable student-budget food.
Is there good food near India Gate and central Delhi?
Yes. Connaught Place (Rajiv Chowk metro) is a 10-minute walk from India Gate and has restaurants across all budgets — from Wenger's bakery (since 1926) to Indian Coffee House to high-end options like Farzi Cafe. Khan Market, also central, has Big Chill, Perch, and some of Delhi's best bookshop-cafes. Bengali Market nearby has Nathu's for chaat and sweets.
What style of biryani is served in Delhi?
Delhi serves primarily two styles: Lucknowi (also called Awadhi or pakki biryani), where the rice and meat are cooked separately then layered and finished together; and Hyderabadi (kacchi biryani), where raw marinated meat is layered with partially cooked rice and slow-cooked in a sealed pot. Most Old Delhi restaurants serve the Lucknowi style. Some restaurants also serve a Delhi-specific version that's spicier and less subtle than the Lucknowi original.
How much does biryani cost in Delhi?
Street-side and small restaurant biryani costs ₹150-300 (-3.60) per plate. Mid-range restaurants like Al Jawahar charge ₹250-450 (-5.50). Delivery services like Biryani By Kilo charge ₹350-600 (-7). Fine dining biryani at places like Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya runs ₹1,500-3,000 (8-36) per serving.
Is Delhi biryani different from Hyderabad biryani?
Yes. Delhi biryani tends to follow the Lucknowi tradition — lighter, more fragrant, with meat and rice cooked separately before layering. Hyderabadi biryani uses the kacchi method, layering raw marinated meat with rice and cooking everything together in a sealed pot, producing a more intense flavour. Delhi's version is subtler; Hyderabad's is bolder.
Who invented butter chicken?
Kundan Lal Gujral invented butter chicken at Moti Mahal restaurant in Daryaganj, Delhi, around 1947. After Partition, Gujral relocated from Peshawar to Delhi and opened Moti Mahal on Netaji Subhash Marg. He repurposed leftover tandoori chicken by simmering it in a tomato-based gravy enriched with butter and cream. The dish became an instant hit and spread globally. A legal dispute between Moti Mahal and Daryaganj restaurant over the invention claim went to court in 2023.
Where can I eat authentic butter chicken in Delhi?
Moti Mahal in Daryaganj (Netaji Subhash Marg) is the original, at ₹350-450 per plate. Daryaganj restaurant in Connaught Place and Khan Market, run by a descendant of the original family, also claims the heritage. For the best-tasting versions today, try Gulati in Pandara Road (₹550-700), Moti Mahal Delux in Lajpat Nagar, and Rajinder Da Dhaba in Safdarjung Enclave for a no-frills version at ₹250-350.
What makes Delhi butter chicken different from other versions?
Authentic Delhi butter chicken uses tandoori chicken — not raw chicken — simmered in a gravy of tomatoes, butter, cream, and a restrained spice blend (mainly garam masala, kasuri methi, and ginger). The gravy should be smooth, slightly sweet from the tomatoes, and rich without being heavy. Versions outside Delhi often add too many spices, skip the tandoori step, or use raw chicken, which changes the flavour fundamentally.
How old is Paranthe Wali Gali?
Paranthe Wali Gali has been serving stuffed parathas since the 1870s, making it over 150 years old. The oldest continuously operating shop is Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan, which claims to have started in 1872. The alley once had over a dozen paratha shops; today about five remain, all within a narrow lane off the main Chandni Chowk road near Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib.
What fillings can you get at Paranthe Wali Gali?
The shops offer over 30 fillings. Classic options include aloo (potato), gobhi (cauliflower), paneer, methi (fenugreek), and mixed dal. Unusual fillings include rabri (sweetened condensed milk), papad (crispy lentil wafer), banana, cashew, and even cauliflower with pomegranate. Each paratha is deep-fried in ghee or oil, served with potato curry, pickle, and a dollop of butter.
When should I visit Paranthe Wali Gali?
Go between 8 AM and 11 AM for the best experience. The oil is freshest in the morning, the parathas come out crispier, and the lane isn't yet packed with the afternoon crowds. Most shops open by 8 AM and serve until 10 PM, but the quality genuinely drops as the day goes on. Avoid Tuesdays — some shops in Chandni Chowk close that day.
What is the best fine dining restaurant in Delhi?
Indian Accent at The Lodhi hotel is consistently ranked as Delhi's best fine dining restaurant and regularly appears on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list. Chef Manish Mehrotra serves modern Indian food — think blue cheese naan, pulled pork phulka tacos, and daulat ki chaat reimagined as dessert. A tasting menu runs ₹6,000-8,000 (2-96) per person without drinks. Book at least a week ahead.
Where can I eat the best Mughlai food in Delhi?
Karim's near Jama Masjid has been serving Mughlai food since 1913 and is the most famous option — their mutton burra kebab is outstanding. For a more upscale Mughlai experience, Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya does slow-cooked dishes in sealed pots. Al Jawahar opposite Jama Masjid is less crowded than Karim's and arguably has better biryani. Budget ₹300-600 per person at Karim's, ₹3,000-5,000 at Dum Pukht.
Are Delhi restaurants expensive?
Delhi has restaurants at every price point. A full meal at a street food stall costs ₹100-200 (.20-2.40). Mid-range restaurants in Connaught Place or Khan Market run ₹500-1,200 (-14) per person. Fine dining at places like Indian Accent or Bukhara costs ₹4,000-10,000 (8-120) per person with drinks. You can eat extraordinarily well in Delhi for very little money.
Where can I find specialty coffee in Delhi?
Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters is Delhi's best specialty coffee chain, with branches in Champa Gali (Saket), Khan Market, and Defence Colony. They roast beans from Indian estates and serve proper pour-overs, espresso, and cold brew. A flat white costs ₹200-280. Other good specialty roasters include Sleepy Owl (cold brew focus), Third Wave Coffee, and Perch in Khan Market, which does excellent single-origin brews.
What is the most historic cafe in Delhi?
Indian Coffee House on the inner circle of Connaught Place has been open since 1957. It was a meeting place for journalists, politicians, writers, and students during the independence era and decades after. The wood-panelled interior, white-uniformed waiters, and menu of filter coffee and snacks haven't changed much. A coffee costs ₹30-50. The crowd still skews intellectual — you'll see people reading newspapers and arguing about politics.
Are there any free or pay-what-you-want cafes in Delhi?
Kunzum Travel Cafe in Hauz Khas Village operates on a pay-what-you-want model for coffee and chai. There's no bill — you drop what you feel is fair into a box by the door. The cafe also has a library of travel books, board games, and a photo gallery. It's been running this model since 2010 and it works. A genuine one-of-a-kind spot.
What percentage of Delhi restaurants are vegetarian?
Roughly 30-40% of restaurants in Delhi are exclusively vegetarian, marked with green 'pure veg' signs. Of the remaining restaurants, nearly all serve both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food with extensive veg sections on their menus. In areas like Karol Bagh, Rajouri Garden, and parts of South Delhi, vegetarian restaurants outnumber non-veg ones. You will never struggle to find vegetarian food in Delhi.
What are the best vegetarian dishes in Delhi?
Chole bhature (chickpea curry with fried bread), paneer tikka, dal makhani (slow-cooked black lentils), aloo gobhi (potato and cauliflower), stuffed parathas, rajma chawal (kidney beans with rice), dahi bhalle (lentil dumplings in yoghurt), golgappe, and a full South Indian dosa with sambar. For sweets, try jalebi, rabri, and gulab jamun. Delhi's vegetarian food is some of the most flavourful you'll find anywhere.
Can vegans eat well in Delhi?
Yes, with some awareness. Much of Delhi's vegetarian food is naturally vegan — dal, chana masala, aloo gobi, rajma, and most chaat items use oil rather than ghee or dairy. However, many dishes include ghee (clarified butter), cream, paneer, or yoghurt. Ask for 'bina ghee' (without ghee) and 'bina cream' (without cream) when ordering. South Indian restaurants are often the easiest for vegans — dosas, idlis, and sambar are dairy-free by default.
What is included in a Delhi food tour?
Most Delhi food tours include 8-12 food tastings at different stalls and restaurants, bottled water, a local guide, and walking transport between stops. Some include rickshaw rides through Old Delhi's lanes. Food is the main cost — your tastings are pre-paid, so you don't need cash at each stall. Tips for the guide are extra, usually ₹200-500 per person.
Are Delhi food tours worth the money?
Yes, especially for first-time visitors. The stalls that guides take you to are often inside unmarked lanes you'd never find alone. You also eat a wider range of dishes in 3-4 hours than you'd manage in days of solo exploring. The guide handles ordering, explains what you're eating, and knows which stalls have the best hygiene. After one guided tour, you'll feel confident eating on your own.
Can I do a vegetarian food tour in Delhi?
Absolutely. Most Delhi food tour operators offer vegetarian-specific routes or can adapt their standard tour. Delhi's street food scene is heavily vegetarian — chole bhature, parathas, dahi bhalle, golgappe, jalebis, and kulfi are all meat-free. A vegetarian food tour in Old Delhi covers just as much ground and variety as the non-vegetarian version.
