The villas at Kumarakom Lake Resort were not built to look old; many of them are old. They are reconstructions of manas, 16th-century Kerala homesteads, transplanted from their original sites and reassembled by hand, plank by plank and tile by tile, across 25 acres on the banks of Lake Vembanad. The result won the World Travel Award as India's Leading Resort four times, and was still collecting trophies in 2023 as Kerala's Leading Resort.
Heritage timber, private pools
Seven categories cover the spread. Presidential Suites with Private Pool have their own lake view, courtyard and pool; Heritage Lake View Villas add a plunge pool with jacuzzi and a panoramic sweep of Vembanad; Heritage Villas face lotus-strewn canals. The clever bit is the 250-metre meandering pool that snakes through the eastern side of the resort, with villas on its banks, each opening onto the water from a private alcove, in duplex and single-storey versions. Open-roofed courtyard bathrooms run throughout, and there are traditional kettuvallom houseboats with a personal crew and chef for nights on the lake itself.
The 200-year-old Ayurmana had been the home of the Chathamangalathu Mana, a family of renowned Ayurvedic practitioners.
That building is now the resort's Ayurveda spa: a nalukettu, a traditional four-sided mansion, transported here in its entirety from its original location.
Life on Vembanad
Dining leans local and confident: Ettukettu, a 115-seat restaurant in an eight-sided mansion with two central courtyards; Vembanad, a seafood bar on the water's edge with a dedicated chef; Thattukada, a recreated Kerala teashop where evening tea and snacks are complimentary; and the small Pool Pavilion by the infinity pool. A one-hour sunset cruise is included every evening, canal cruises go out by motorised canoe, and the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary is a short boat ride away. Kottayam station is about 15 km; Cochin airport roughly an hour and a half by road. This is the reference point for Kerala backwater luxury, and it earns the title.