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The shelf · every stay we vouch for

The stays

Every place here is one we would stay in ourselves — 232 of them. Narrow it by where you are going, or by the kind of place you want.

bench on path to sea
Goa · Beach Sojourn

Casa Jaali

Rocky peninsula. Patnem Beach. Dolphins at sunrise. Casa Jaali is where you actually want to be in Goa. Authentic Goan architecture, locally crafted rooms, 35 meters from the beach. The real thing.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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A Serai tent and its veranda on the edge of the Thar
Jaisalmer · desert camp

SUJÁN The Serai

Twenty-one tents on the golden edge of the Thar: private plunge pools, Manganiyar bards by firelight, and dunes running to the horizon. Jaisalmer's living fortress is up the road.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Guleria Kothi
Varanasi · Riverfront heritage hotel

Guleria Kothi

A restored 18th-century sandstone kothi on Guleria Ghat, no road to the door, you arrive by boat

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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palaisdemahe
Pondicherry · Boutique hotel - City Break

Palais de Mahe

A mansion-style stay in Pondicherry's French Quarter where whitewashed arches and high ceilings meet the salt-air bustle of the Tamil coast just outside the door.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Model of the Dutch ship Batavia in a glass case at the hotel reception, evening light
Alleppey, Kerala · Boutique hotel

Eighth Bastion

A CGH Earth property in Fort Kochi that wears its Dutch East India Company history lightly: think spice-trail dinners, a shipwreck story at reception, and a genuine effort to tread softly on the town around it.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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A leopard peers over a granite boulder at JAWAI
Jawai · luxury safari camp

SUJÁN JAWAI

Ten tented suites among billion-year-old granite, where leopards live openly alongside Rabari herdsmen. Twice-daily drives, Marwari horses, and candlelit brass baths under the stars.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Sher Bagh's lantern-lit deck at dusk
Ranthambhore · safari camp

SUJÁN Sher Bagh

Twelve campaign-style tents on the edge of Ranthambhore: brass bathtubs, a Tatler-listed jungle spa, campfire cooking, and India's most celebrated tigers a game drive away.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Seclude Shimla Taraview, four poster room
Shimla · Heritage home

Seclude Shimla Taraview

A colonial-era home above Old Shimla, all glazed verandahs and lime-plastered calm: six galaxy-named rooms, none alike, and a garden made for lingering.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Udai Kothi facade with jharokha balconies, Udaipur
Udaipur · Boutique hotel

Udai Kothi

Sixty four rooms above Hanuman Ghat and the oldest rooftop pool in Udaipur, by the house's own telling. Dusk up there outshines the palace bars.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Rohet Garh painted gateway
Jodhpur · Heritage hotel

Rohet Garh

A classified heritage hotel at Rohet near Jodhpur, held by the same family since 1622 and receiving guests since 1990. Frescoed rooms, a courtyard pool, a family kitchen with its own cookbook, and a Marwari stable the family calls among the country's finest.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Aerial view of the whole walled fort: ramparts, domes, courtyards and pool, with the Aravali landscape behind. No people.
Ranthambhore · Restored fort palace hotel

Six Senses Fort Barwara

A 14th-century walled fort near Ranthambhore, restored over more than a decade into 48 contemporary Rajasthani suites, with two palaces, two temples and a 30,000 square foot spa inside the ramparts.

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Aerial view of the resort: a long cream two-storey villa with red-tiled roof, central arched tower, grey-blue shutters and arched verandas, fronted by a landscaped garden with palm
Nashik · Vineyard resort

The Source at Sula

A cream-and-terracotta villa on the site of Sula's first winery, by the house's own telling, with rooms named after the world's wine regions and views running over the vines towards Gangapur Lake.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Rooftop terrace with aquamarine arched pavilion, carved white columns, black wrought-iron railings and cane chairs, looking across the lawn and gate to a large unrestored painted h
Churu · Restored heritage haveli hotel

Malji ka Kamra

A century-old Shekhawati haveli in Churu, restored into a heritage hotel. Aquamarine stucco, carved balconies and muralled rooms, with the painted town and the desert on the doorstep.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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The pool at the Goa villa: turquoise water, yellow-striped sun loungers with rolled towels, green scalloped parasols, giant elephant-ear plants and the white two-storey villa with
Goa · Art-led boutique hotel

The Project Café Goa

In Aldona, inland North Goa, The Project Café has turned a 150-year-old Portuguese villa into an art-first boutique hotel with a pool, gallery, art bar and shop. Rooms are named after Goan places, and and, the hotel says outright, what catches your eye can be bought and taken home.

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Front facade: deep red Portuguese house with whitewashed arches, tiled roof and circular lily pond on the lawn. Extracted from the hotel's official e-brochure PDF, page 3.
Goa · Restored heritage boutique hotel

Amrapali House of Grace

A Portuguese house of around 1919 at Siridao bridge in Goa Velha, lovingly restored from 2014 by local artisans and reborn as a six-room boutique hotel. Expect a courtyard pool between red arcaded wings, a waterfront cafe with a pastry chef they say is Le Cordon Bleu certified, five resident dogs and the sort of quiet that North Goa's beach belt forgot.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Entrance facade: red sandstone wall with brass EKAA lettering, glass door into a plant-filled lobby with chequerboard floor, frangipani trees in pots
Agra · Boutique hotel

Ekaa Agra

A 13-room boutique hotel in Agra's Taj Nagri, built by three friends with deep roots in the city. Rooms borrow from the Taj's arches and inlay work, the kitchen serves family recipes from within 50 km, and the tours go where day-trippers never do.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Jagat Niwas Palace
Udaipur · Lakefront Heritage

Jagat Niwas Palace

Lake Pichola on your doorstep, the City Palace next door, and a rooftop where the tables look straight across the water to the Lake Palace at sunset. Jagat Niwas is a 27-room heritage haveli in the old city of Udaipur: Mewari arches, a mirror-ceilinged lake-view dining room, a rooftop plunge pool and a lakefront spa. A boutique address in the heart of the City of Lakes.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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The red-sandstone facade of The Laxmi Niwas Palace, Bikaner, its domes and cupolas rising over formal lawns
Bikaner · Heritage Palace

The Laxmi Niwas Palace

A red-sandstone palace on the edge of the Thar, raised by the Maharaja of Bikaner in 1904 and famous, even then, for guests who never quite wanted to leave. Domes and cupolas, deep-carved friezes, filigree stonework and latticed screens, set in formal lawns. The Laxmi Niwas Palace is the royal house of Bikaner, now a heritage hotel.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Ahilya Fort rising above the ghats of the Narmada at Maheshwar, boats on the river below
Maheshwar · Riverside Fort-Palace

Ahilya Fort

High above the ghats of the sacred Narmada, in the weaving town of Maheshwar, stands the 18th-century fort-palace of Ahilyabai Holkar, still in the family, and now opening its courtyards to a handful of guests. Nineteen rooms across six old buildings, three walled courtyards, a garden pool, and a daily table grown in the fort's own beds. One of central India's great stays.

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The candlelit central courtyard of Samode Haveli at dusk, tables set around a lotus fountain beneath painted arches, Jaipur
Jaipur · Painted Haveli

Samode Haveli

Down a lane in the old walled city, behind high gates, the Samode family's Jaipur townhouse hides a run of painted courtyards, frescoed halls, and a lotus-fountain garden you dine around by candlelight. Around 225 years old and still family-run, one of the loveliest heritage stays in the Pink City.

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Coconut palms and lawns at Isola di Cocco where the Poovar backwater meets the sea, Kerala
Poovar · Backwater Ayurveda Resort

Isola di Cocco

On the banks of the Poovar River at the far south of Kerala, where river, beach and backwater meet, Isola di Cocco is a coconut-grove retreat of Kerala-style villas, a private beach, and a proper Ayurvedic centre on site. Its name means the Island of Coconuts. Days go slowly here: the pool, the sand, or the long calm of an Ayurveda treatment.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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A terrace at Fort Tiracol looking past a whitewashed sentry turret to the sea and the Goan coast beyond
Goa · Portuguese Fort Hotel

Fort Tiracol

On a headland at the very top of Goa, where the Arabian Sea meets the Terekhol River, a small 17th-century fort keeps a whitewashed chapel and a handful of rooms above the water. Cross on the little ferry, climb to the ramparts, and Goa empties out below you. Fort Tiracol is the quiet, old-Portuguese Goa most people never find.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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A lamplit inner courtyard of Hotel Diggi Palace seen through a scalloped arch at night, Jaipur
Jaipur · City Palace Hotel

Hotel Diggi Palace

A 19th-century thikana palace in the middle of Jaipur, still run by the Diggi family who built it, some eighteen acres of courtyards, arched gateways and lawns behind the city walls. Home of the Jaipur Literature Festival since 2006, and a genuinely warm, unstuffy heritage stay the rest of the year.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Stok Palace on its ridge above the Indus, mountains behind
Leh & Ladakh · Royal palace stay

Stok Palace

Above the Indus near Leh, the Namgyal family's home of two centuries takes guests, a monk on the top floor, the royal museum, and three villas in the apricot orchard.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Cottages in the green fields of Mharo Khet outside Jodhpur
Jodhpur · Farm stay

Mharo Khet

Mharo khet is Marwari for 'my farm'. On 40 acres outside Jodhpur: ten raga-named cottages, a nine-course dinner in the guava orchard, and a spot on TIME's World's Greatest Places list.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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The bougainvillea gateway of Mela Kothi, the Chambal Safari Lodge
The Chambal · Heritage safari lodge

Chambal Safari Lodge

An hour from the Taj: a family seat traced to 1472, fourteen rooms in regrown forest, and slow boats past wild gharials on a river that bandit legend and an ancient curse kept blissfully undisturbed.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Brij Atmanya
Nainital · Hillside retreat

Brij Atmanya

A sanctuary of stone and wood at five thousand feet in Bhowali, heart of the Kumaon Lake District, with Kumaoni cooking from its own herb garden and treks from the door.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Brij Casa Susegad
Goa · Heritage villa

Brij Casa Susegad

A seven-room Indo-Portuguese villa hidden in Loutolim's forested heart, named for susegad, the Goan word for taking life slowly, slow days of river fishing, nature walks and birdsong.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Brij Villa
Dalhousie · Colonial villa

Brij Villa

A 130-year-old colonial cottage atop Moti Tiba's deodar-clad heights, a kilometre from Dalhousie's Gandhi Chowk, with bay-windowed rooms and dining at Cedar.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Brij Anayra
Dharamshala · Himalayan tea-estate retreat

Brij Anayra

Heritage suites named for Viceroys on a 161-year-old tea garden estate, its 16 acres of plantation rolling towards the Dhauladhar range above Dharamshala.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Brij Paraiso
Goa · Boutique villa

Brij Paraiso

A Goan garden retreat in the forested lanes of Saligao, its nine village-named rooms, pool and outdoor showers 4–5 km from North Goa's beaches.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Brij Sone Bagh
Bandhavgarh · Safari lodge

Brij Sone Bagh

Folk-art villas, Gond, Dhokra and Bagh print, at the edge of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, where safaris, Baiga kitchens and bush dinners follow the jungle's rhythm.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Brijrama Palace
Varanasi · Heritage palace hotel

Brijrama Palace

A 200-year-old palace on Darbhanga Ghat, the second-oldest in Varanasi, reached the old way, by boat

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WelcomHeritage Badi Kothi lit up at night, carved sandstone facade
Prayagraj · Heritage hotel

WelcomHeritage Badi Kothi

A lantern-lit heritage kothi near the bank of the Ganga, carved balconies, stained-glass courtyards, a rooftop pool above the river and the Triveni Sangam just up the road.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Villa 33
Delhi · Hotel

Villa 33

A small bed-and-breakfast base in Delhi, Deluxe and Superior rooms with breakfast included.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Coral House
Agra · Hotel

Coral House

An art-filled Agra homestay a short walk from the Taj Mahal's east gate — rooms themed on contemporary Indian artists, a leafy garden loud with birdsong, and hosts who know Agra inside out.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Pink arches and floral chairs in the rooftop restaurant at Dev Mahal, Jaipur
Jaipur · Hotel

Dev Mahal

A former haveli in the heart of the Pink City turned 15-room boutique hotel — a rooftop restaurant looking out to Nahargarh Fort, an Ayurvedic spa, and Jaipur's landmarks a short drive away.

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The arched entrance passage at Khatu Haveli, Jaipur
Jaipur · Hotel

Khatu Haveli

A mid-19th-century haveli inside Jaipur's walled Pink City, lived in by six generations of the Khatu family, three courtyards, carved arches, and terraces looking up to Nahargarh Fort.

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Main lodge building with red-tiled roof, timber-railed deck, safari chairs and a telescope at Samode Safari Lodge, Bandhavgarh
Bandhavgarh · Safari lodge

Samode Safari Lodge

The Samode family's safari lodge sits on 35 acres next to the Bandhavgarh buffer zone, about 25 minutes from the reserve's three entry gates. Twelve villas each get a private courtyard, deck and outdoor shower, with an infinity pool and spa shared between them. The build takes its cues from Mardari, the village next door, which is why it doesn't shout.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Main swimming pool with curved slatted pergola, loungers and lit lodge buildings at dusk at Aramness, Sasan Gir
Gir National Park · Safari lodge

Aramness

A lodge laid out as a Gujarati village on the edge of Sasan Gir, home of the Asiatic lion. Eighteen double-storey kothis line a cobbled street, each with a shaded courtyard, a first-floor veranda facing the teak forest and a small pool modelled on an Indian stepwell. Hand-carved sandstone jali screens throw dappled light over the rooms; the kitchen leans farm-to-table Gujarati.

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Morning coffee tray set beside the waterhole with the lodge among the trees behind at Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, Satpura
Satpura · Jungle lodge

Reni Pani Jungle Lodge

A conservation-minded lodge from Bhopal's Jehan Numa family, in teak country near Satpura Tiger Reserve, the park where safaris go on foot, by canoe and by cycle as much as by jeep. Sleep in cottages set among nallah, forest or hill, or in tents ringed round a perennial waterhole that draws wildlife to the doorstep. The name comes from the reni berry trees here, a favourite of sloth bears.

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Executive Cottage, red-walled thatched cottage with bougainvillea and a lamp-lit garden path at Sundarban Tiger Camp, Sundarbans
The Sundarbans · Jungle camp

Sundarban Tiger Camp

On Dayapur Island opposite Sundarban National Park, this camp has been running cruise safaris into the mangrove waterways since 2004, you arrive by boat from Gadkhali along the Pitchkhali River. The 21 rooms, each hand-painted by a local artist and kept free of televisions, all have private balconies. Evenings bring a sundowner at the Mangrove bar and, some nights, a Bonobibi Jatra, the local play of the forest goddess.

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Safari tent in tall grass with mist and sunrise breaking through the trees at Jamtara Wilderness Camp, Pench
Pench · Wilderness camp

Jamtara Wilderness Camp

A ten-tent camp beneath tall arjuna trees and an ancient banyan on a dry riverbed at the edge of Pench, run by the grandson of Project Tiger's first director. Tents roll up their front panels to face the forest; the furniture is reclaimed, from ship-deck timber to writing desks from the Supreme Court of India. The signature is the star bed, a night on a machan in the fields, as village crop-watchers have always slept.

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Cottage exterior with stone steps and shaded veranda amid dense trees at Irai Safari Retreat, Tadoba
Tadoba · Safari retreat

Irai Safari Retreat

A safari retreat about a hundred metres from Irai lake and minutes from Tadoba's Moharli gate, beside the tribal village of Bhamdeli. Cottages and jungle tents, with a pool and an in-house restaurant for the hours between drives. Safaris run into the Moharli, Kolara and Navegaon zones with the lodge's naturalists, and it holds TOFT certification for responsible tourism.

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Lodge buildings lit up at dusk with glass walls glowing over the grassland at Bori Safari Lodge, Satpura
Satpura · Safari lodge

Bori Safari Lodge

Reni Pani's younger sibling from the Jehan Numa stable, set on a 7.5-acre farmland estate in Dhapadamal village, three kilometres from the gate of Bori Wildlife Sanctuary, an emerging tiger landscape most visitors haven't found yet. Rooms come with private viewing decks over the fields, plus a plunge pool, spa and library. Set menus lean on the village cooking of Madhya Pradesh, sourced from local farmers.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Cottage exterior with a private sand courtyard, charpoy daybed and flowering bougainvillea at Mela Kothi – Chambal Safari Lodge, Chambal
The Chambal · Safari lodge

Mela Kothi – Chambal Safari Lodge

The Mela Kothi went up in the late 1860s as the office for a zamindar family's twice-yearly cattle fair; the same family restored it from 1999 as a safari lodge in 33 acres of planted forest. Fourteen rooms and cottages sit among the trees. Boats go out on the National Chambal Sanctuary for gharials and Gangetic dolphins, and the Taj Mahal is about an hour's drive.

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Two scallop-edged tented suites reflected in the lake against bamboo forest at Bagh Villas, Kanha
Kanha · Jungle boutique villas

Bagh Villas

A boutique jungle camp on the periphery of Kanha Tiger Reserve, styled on the Jodhpuri shikar tents of old hunting camps crossed with an African safari camp. Quarters come two ways, tented suites and lakeside cottages, each with a bamboo shower and a verandah deck facing the lake. The lake itself is rain-harvested, and the kitchen draws on the camp's own organic garden, cows, hens and bees.

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Mud-plastered guest wings and rooftop glasshouses among tall poplar trees, bare mountain slopes behind, at Ladakh Sarai, Leh
Leh & Ladakh · Himalayan retreat

Ladakh Sarai

Founded in 1978, a few years after Ladakh first opened to travellers, and now stewarded by Ladakhis, this slow-travel base sits in Ayu village in the Indus Valley, built in traditional stone-and-mud style. Stay in a mud hut, a chalet or the duplex suite. Televisions have been removed from every room; a shared set waits in the Sarai Hall, which tells you what the place is for.

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Carved wooden entrance sign on tree-trunk posts with a thatched cottage behind at Jim's Jungle Retreat, Corbett
Corbett · Jungle retreat

Jim's Jungle Retreat

A small lodge at Corbett Tiger Reserve, set between the Himalayan foothills and the Shivaliks: just eighteen independent cottages and lodges in more than fifteen acres of replanted forest. Days run to safari drives, bird walks and morning river walks. Meals are farm-to-table from the retreat's own organic plot, drawing on Kumaoni, Rampur and Raj-era recipes; you can pick the vegetables yourself.

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Pink tiered facade of the hotel rising above the Ganges at dusk at Pilibhit House, Haridwar
Haridwar · Heritage hotel

Pilibhit House

A century-old aristocratic mansion on the Ganges at Haridwar, now a 35-room hotel under IHCL's SeleQtions flag. Rooms face quiet courtyards or the river, and there is a Jiva spa, pool and library inside the old walls. The point of staying, though, is the house's private bathing ghat on the Ganges; the hotel says it is the largest of its kind.

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Riverside terrace and private ghat beside the flowing Ganga, shaded by a large tree, at Amrit Bhawan, Haridwar
Haridwar · Heritage boutique retreat

Amrit Bhawan

A family home on a calmer bend of the Ganga at Haridwar, restored between 2017 and 2020 with its art deco character intact, and now run as an intimate retreat by Ekat. There are eight rooms, each named for a star of the Sapt Rishi constellation, which on clear nights appears above the terrace. Guided walks open up the old town at a slower pace.

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Red-roofed lodge entrance with stone pathway, clipped hedges and lantern-lined lawns at Sariska Safari Lodge, Sariska
Sariska · Safari lodge

Sariska Safari Lodge

An eco-minded boutique lodge on 6.5 acres at the periphery of Sariska Tiger Reserve, ringed by the Aravalli range. Nineteen simply designed cottages, finished in locally sourced materials, sit in five clusters opening onto lawns; the first-floor Maharani Suite looks out to Thanagazi Fort. Safaris go after Sariska's tigers, and the buffer zone stays open year-round except Wednesdays.

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White art deco manor facade framed by palms and ferns at dusk at Jaagir Manor, Dudhwa
Dudhwa · Heritage manor

Jaagir Manor

An 80-year-old hunting lodge in the Terai, within the wildlife corridor around Dudhwa: country of grasslands, forest and freshwater ponds that holds tigers, rhinos and sloth bears. Suites and villas, some brick-built, surround an outdoor pool; dinner is at the Jaagir Pavilion, drinks and finger food at the Safari Club. Safaris here are notably uncrowded.

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Lodge building with red-tiled roof, marble steps and lantern-lit veranda among dry grasses at dusk at The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar
Velavadar · Safari lodge

The Blackbuck Lodge

A small lodge in the golden grasslands of Blackbuck National Park, in the Bhal region of Saurashtra. Rough-hewn stone villas, some with plunge or full pools plus one suite, look straight onto the grass, and blackbuck and bluebull can be watched without leaving your room. Guided walks and the Lettuce Eat restaurant fill the hours in one of India's emptier, stranger landscapes.

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View from an upper walkway down into the double-height atrium lounge with oversized dome pendant lamps, sofas and red patterned rugs at The Chospa, Leh
Leh & Ladakh · Boutique hotel

The Chospa

A contemporary hotel on Old Leh Road, built the old Ladakhi way: thick, buttressed walls of compressed earth blocks made on site. Leh's main market is 350 metres away, Leh Palace just over a kilometre. Juniper, the ground-floor restaurant, works Ladakhi and Tibetan flavours through its menus, and the bathroom floors are heated, which, in a Leh winter, is no small thing.

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Stepped private ghat terraces lit at dusk beside the Ganga at Ekaanta, Haridwar
Haridwar · Wellness retreat

Ekaanta

A wellness retreat on the Ganges at Haridwar, its name Sanskrit for solitude, with a private ghat where Ganga aarti is performed. Rooms look over the river; programmes range from general rejuvenation to sleep, gut and chronic-pain work, built on Ayurveda, yoga and meditation. Meals are 'slow cuisine' from seasonal, local ingredients, and Delhi is about three and a half hours by road.

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Stone main lodge lit with lanterns at dusk, safari jeeps parked to the side at Singinawa Jungle Lodge, Kanha
Kanha · Jungle lodge

Singinawa Jungle Lodge

A lodge in a hundred acres of its own forest adjoining Kanha Tiger Reserve, near Kohka village. Accommodation stays intimate: twelve safari cottages with private verandahs, plus two secluded jungle bungalows, the four-room Perch and the two-room Wildernest. The kitchen cooks with organic produce from the lodge's farms, and the on-site Kanha Museum of Life and Art is worth an hour between safaris.

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Stone-and-timber main building with green roofs, arched windows and a paved forecourt framed by hydrangeas at Storii Urvashi's Retreat, Manali
Manali · Himalayan retreat

Storii Urvashi's Retreat

ITC's small-scale Storii brand in Bahang, upper Manali, at 2,000 metres with the Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar ranges around it. Twenty-two rooms and suites share two acres with a mini apple orchard and glacial brooks, which gather into a natural pool. The buildings borrow Himalayan blue pine and local kathkhuni construction, and the whole place is pet-friendly, dogs get a proper welcome.

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Main lodge with pitched tiled roofs, entrance porte-cochere, fountain and lit gardens at dusk at WelcomHeritage Tadoba Vanya Villas, Tadoba
Tadoba · Safari resort

WelcomHeritage Tadoba Vanya Villas

A WelcomHeritage lodge of 34 rooms surrounded by the wilds of Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve. Premium cottages come with private gardens and living areas; the eight luxury tents run to 1,200 square feet, larger than most city flats. Two restaurants, a bar, a pool and a spa see you through the middle of the day between safari drives.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Ada Villa bedroom with high ceilings, rose-print bedspread and curtains, framed prints and Persian rugs at Windamere Hotel, Darjeeling
Darjeeling · Heritage hotel

Windamere Hotel

Darjeeling's Raj-era heritage hotel, spread across houses that include Ada Villa and The Snuggery, the latter looking over Chowrasta. Rooms carry names like Princess of Siam and Begum Aga Khan; dinner is formal, and afternoon tea remains a fixture. A two-roomed bungalow houses the DHR Club, for devotees of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.

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Lantern-lit path leading to the lodge entrance at dusk at Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge, Chitwan
Chitwan · Jungle lodge

Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge

A 12-room lodge and nine safari tents on the edge of Chitwan National Park, built longhouse-style from local materials in the Tharu tradition. The draw is the resident herd of twelve elephants: you walk the jungle alongside them and their mahouts rather than ride, then watch them cool off in the Narayani river at sundown, drink in hand. Jeep safaris go out in restored open-top Land Rovers.

Rates on request, usually back within the hour

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Terrace dining deck with wicker chairs looking out to snow-capped Himalayan peaks at Sarangkot Mountain Lodge, Pokhara
Pokhara · Mountain lodge

Sarangkot Mountain Lodge

A lodge on Sarangkot hill at 1,600 metres, high above Pokhara, with the Annapurna range in view from every room. Rooms and a pair of suites are done in stone and wood in natural hues, each with a private balcony, which is where the famous Sarangkot sunrise is best taken in, far from the viewpoint scrum.

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Aerial view of thatched lodge buildings and a freeform pool beside the river at Barahi Jungle Lodge, Chitwan
Chitwan · Jungle lodge

Barahi Jungle Lodge

An eco-certified lodge on the banks of the Rapti at Meghauli, near Chitwan National Park. Its 34 deluxe rooms are thatched huts, most strung along the riverbank, a handful tucked into the jungle, plus one suite, all with private balconies. The lodge runs private safaris into the park, including a dedicated tiger-tracking expedition, and there's a pool for the sticky hours.

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Lodge buildings with lit windows on a hillside at dusk at Gangtey Lodge, Gangtey
Phobjikha Valley · Himalayan lodge

Gangtey Lodge

A lodge perched high above the Phobjikha valley, looking down on a 17th-century monastery, traditional farmhouses and mountainsides of Himalayan blue pine. Its identical 46-square-metre suites are done farmhouse-style, each with a wood-burning fireplace and a roll-top bath facing the valley. In winter more than 600 black-necked cranes arrive from the Tibetan Plateau to roost on the valley floor, they are said to circle the monastery as they come.

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Whitewashed sanctuary building with tiered Bhutanese roofs against forested mountains at Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary, Paro
Paro · Wellness sanctuary

Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary

A wellness-inclusive retreat in the Neyphu Valley, a fifteen-minute drive from Paro's airport. Each stay opens with a consultation with a Traditional Bhutanese Medicine doctor, and the rate folds in a daily herbal treatment, yoga, meditation and farm-to-table meals. Rooms face the valley from a private balcony or a garden terrace, and the tea bar stocks twenty herbal blends.

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Thatched Water Dwellings on stilts reflected in the lake at dusk at Jetwing Vil Uyana, Sigiriya
Sigiriya · Eco resort

Jetwing Vil Uyana

Jetwing's lakeside reserve in Sri Lanka's cultural triangle, its stand-alone dwellings scattered across five habitats of garden, paddy, water and forest, several with private plunge pools. Sigiriya rock fortress is 6.9 km away; closer still is the grey slender loris, a rare nocturnal primate that lives on the reserve and is sought out on night walks with a resident naturalist.

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White multi-storey hotel building behind a tile-roofed entrance pavilion with garden beds at Svatma, Thanjavur
Thanjavur · Heritage hotel

Svatma

Thanjavur was the Chola capital, and Svatma is its most considered address: 34 rooms arranged like a large family home, with verandas, lounges and quiet corners given over to the arts. Aaharam, the all-vegetarian restaurant, serves Tamil cuisine as plated mini meals from a display kitchen beside the pool, and alongside the spa there is a sound spa.

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Main villa with tiled roofs, pillared upper balcony and tropical garden planting at Kahani Paradise, Gokarna
Gokarna · Luxury villa estate

Kahani Paradise

Kahani hides in twenty acres of hillside garden directly behind the sandy bay of Paradise Beach, on the Gokarna peninsula. There are just eight rooms and suites, all looking out at the Arabian Sea, with coastal cooking and plenty to do on and off the estate. The gardens are full of butterflies.

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Wooden Andaman Villa and thatched conical Nicobari cottage set among tropical trees at Barefoot at Havelock, Havelock
Havelock Island · Beach resort

Barefoot at Havelock

Villas, cottages and tents of timber and thatch, built from indigenous materials in the greenery behind Radhanagar Beach on Havelock Island. Barefoot was the first sustainably designed and operated resort in the Andamans, and it keeps faith with the setting: diving, kayaking and nature trails by day, then dinner at The Swimming Elephant, a thatched restaurant named after Rajan, the last swimming elephant.

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Tree House cottage perched in the forest canopy overlooking Athirappilly Falls at Rainforest Athirapally, Athirappilly
Athirappilly · Rainforest resort

Rainforest Athirapally

A ten-room retreat on seven acres of rainforest in the Sholayar forest, its balconies looking straight onto the Athirappilly falls. A lone treehouse sits up in the canopy, waterfall beyond the treetops. There is an infinity pool and Ayurveda, and the quieter diversions are the good ones: tribal bamboo cooking, firefly watching after dark.

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Main retreat building and villas lit up at dusk against a forested hillside at Niraamaya Retreats Samroha, Athirappilly
Athirappilly · Wellness retreat

Niraamaya Retreats Samroha

Niraamaya's wellness retreat sits on a cliff above the Athirappilly falls, along the banks of the Chalakudy River. Rooms, cottages and private-pool villas, many facing the water, with the group's Ayurveda-led spa at the centre of things. Café Samsara handles the all-day dining; the Essence lounge bar keeps the waterfall view. Unusually for a retreat of this sort, it takes pets.

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Resort buildings nestled on a densely forested hillside at Spice Tree Munnar, Munnar
Munnar · Hillside retreat

Spice Tree Munnar

A small boutique resort between the Kannan Devan and Bison Valley hills, in Munnar's high ranges, with fourteen suites and two pool villas spread across the Muttukadu and Kumbappara hills. Every suite looks over the valley; some add Victorian jacuzzis, plunge pools or copper tubs. The outdoor pool is solar-heated mountain spring water, and the tea lounge is called 300 BC.

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Tree House lit at dusk high in the rainforest canopy, reached by a rope suspension bridge, Vythiri Resort, Vythiri
Wayanad · Rainforest resort

Vythiri Resort

A 150-acre stretch of Wayanad rainforest the founders came across in 1993, six coffee-workers' row houses standing on it; today there are 36 villas and cottages, plus tree houses up in the canopy, beside a forest stream crossed by a swaying rope bridge. No TVs, no air-conditioning, patchy signal, quite deliberately. Kerala Ayurveda at the spa; the Malabar whistling thrush does the wake-up call.

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Tree House with thatched roof raised on wooden stilts amid dense plantation greenery, Carmelia Haven, Thekkady
Thekkady · Plantation resort

Carmelia Haven

A resort set within a working tea and cardamom plantation at Vandanmedu, in the hills near Thekkady. The stays are the draw: wooden tree houses on stilts with wrap-around balconies over the plantation, plunge-pool villas, planters' villas, even a cave room. Kolumban, the restaurant, cooks old Kerala recipes alongside the multi-cuisine spread, and days go on plantation walks, jeep safaris and a look around the cardamom factory.

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Curved infinity pools and deck looking over forested hills to the sunset at Java Rain Resort, Chikmagalur
Chikmagalur · Hillside retreat

Java Rain Resort

A villa resort in the foothills of Mullayanagiri, Karnataka's highest peak, amid the estates that earned Chikmagalur the name of India's coffee country. Villas run from snug hideaways to a three-bedroom pool villa; there is an infinity pool aimed at the hills, and Crimson Peak, a bar perched fifty feet up in the treetops, which the resort calls the highest in Karnataka.

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Lamp-lit stone pathways and cottages amid coconut palms at dusk, Coco Lagoon by Great Mount, Pollachi
Pollachi · Lagoon resort

Coco Lagoon by Great Mount

A resort in a coconut grove in the open countryside outside Pollachi, on the rural fringe of Coimbatore district. Rooms climb from compact executive rooms to pond-view suites and villas with plunge or private pools, with an infinity pool and The Palm restaurant at the centre. The excursions stay local, and are better for it: bullock-cart rides, handloom village visits, palm-jaggery tours.

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Infinity pool with sun loungers and umbrellas in front of a brick-and-tile building beside the lake at Anantya by the Lake, Chittar
Chittar, Kanyakumari · Lakeside plantation resort

Anantya by the Lake

Anantya sits on the banks of Chittar Lake inside the Vaikundam Estate, a working rubber plantation in Kanyakumari district run by one family since 1957. Villas and cottages face the lake, some with private pools or outdoor jacuzzis; days go on plantation tours, fishing from the banks, and drives to watch the sun set at the tip of India.

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Infinity pool merging into Vembanad Lake with a houseboat beyond and loungers on the deck, Kumarakom Lake Resort, Kumarakom
Kumarakom · Backwater heritage resort

Kumarakom Lake Resort

The grand old name of the Kumarakom backwaters: a 25-acre heritage resort on the banks of Vembanad Lake, four times named India's Leading Resort at the World Travel Awards. Stays run from heritage villas with private pools to meandering-pool villas and the resort's own houseboats. Ayurmana, the Ayurveda spa, is taken seriously here; the traditional Kerala teashop is a nice touch among the restaurants.

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Front lawn and lit Art Deco facade at dusk, Saraca Hotel Lucknow, Lucknow
Lucknow · Heritage hotel

Saraca Hotel Lucknow

A white Art Deco house from 1936 on Lucknow's Mall Avenue, refurbished in 2016 and set in its own lawns. There are 41 rooms and suites, from the compact Awadh Room to the four-poster Heritage and Imperial Suites, most of which open onto the central courtyard the hotel calls the Sehen. Downstairs, Azrak cooks Awadhi food; there is also a pool, a spa and a rooftop lounge.

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Street entrance with mizpah awning and bougainvillea, Mizpah Delhi, Delhi
Delhi · Boutique bed & breakfast

Mizpah Delhi

A four-room bed and breakfast in a house in Safdarjung Enclave, styled, its owner Caroline says, on her grandmother's Anglo-Indian home in Calcutta. The rooms, Iris, Rose, Jasmine and Lily, take their names from the flower-named daughters and aunts of Anglo-Indian families; each is different, with its own bathroom and a balcony or terrace. The kitchen cooks home-style Anglo-Indian, Bengali and Delhi dishes, and the house is fully staffed through the day.

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White house and gate at D-418 Defence Colony, Colonel's Retreat, Delhi
Delhi · Boutique bed & breakfast

Colonel's Retreat

Two bed-and-breakfast houses in Defence Colony, an upmarket, tree-lined corner of South Delhi; the doors first opened in 2008. Rooms are Standard Rooms, each with an air purifier, opening onto shared lounges hung with original art. The kitchen makes its own jams, marmalade and multigrain bread, the banana bread is the house speciality guests ask for most, and in good weather breakfast and dinner move up to the rooftop.

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Street-level view of the dark-tiled facade and orange Mosaic Connect sign, Mosaic Connect Ayodhya, Ayodhya
Ayodhya · Contemporary hotel

Mosaic Connect Ayodhya

A contemporary hotel in Ayodhya's Civil Lines, about a kilometre from Ayodhya Cantt railway station and five from the new Maharishi Valmiki International Airport. Rooms come in three categories, Premium, Family and Deluxe Twin, above a pure-vegetarian skyline restaurant, Atithi Mangalam, open 7am to 10.30pm, and a 2,000 sq ft banquet space the hotel calls Summit.

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Fortified walls and gateway of the castle, Castle Bijaipur, Bijaipur
Chittorgarh · 16th-century castle heritage hotel

Castle Bijaipur

Castle Bijaipur was built in the early 16th century by Rao Vijay Singh, a descendant of Shakti Singh, younger brother of Maharana Pratap, and was converted into a hotel in 1991 by the ruling family, who still live in it. It sits at 600 metres in the Vindhyanchal Hills near Chittorgarh, surrounded by forests of Flame of the Forest and Jacaranda.

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Evening dining laid out in the garden courtyard, Dera Rawatsar, Jaipur
Jaipur · Heritage boutique hotel

Dera Rawatsar

Dera Rawatsar is a family-run boutique hotel in Jaipur's Bani Park, built in 1950 and run by the House of Rawatsar, who trace their ancestry to the Kandhlot Rathore clan of Rajputs. It has 16 rooms across three categories, a garden, an outdoor pool and an in-house restaurant serving home-style Indian food.

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