Agra is a one-monument city for most visitors, and the single decision that matters is how close to the Taj Mahal's East Gate you sleep. Four of our five stays here are in Tajganj, the neighbourhood at its feet.
Tajganj, by the East Gate, is where the small family homestays are, and they exist for one reason: sunrise. Being two minutes' walk from the gate means you are through it as it opens, before the coaches from Delhi arrive, which is a different monument from the one people see at eleven o'clock. Coral House is a family homestay two minutes from the East Gate with over forty bird species recorded from it. Coral Court is a traveller's own house in Tajganj, turned homestay in 2016. Diwan House is handcrafted in Rajasthani style with the dome in view. Ekaa has thirteen colour-themed rooms and home cooking.
These are guest houses rather than hotels: rooftop breakfasts, a handful of rooms, the family on site. Nobody is coming to Agra for the hotel.
The cantonment, three or four kilometres away, holds the older formal hotels. Grand Imperial has fifty rooms in a 1900s British-era building, once the Metropole, with a pool and a Mughlai gazebo. More space and a garden, at the cost of the early walk.
Agra is two hours from Delhi on the Gatimaan Express and four to five hours by road from Jaipur, which is why it is usually one night rather than two. Worth knowing: the Taj is closed to tourists on Fridays, and Agra Fort and the abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri, 40 km west, are what fills the second day if you give it one.