Track tigers at Satpura. Stay at Reni Pani Jungle Lodge.

Two nights on the Jungle Plan: all meals, a jeep safari and a second activity every night, already in the price.

Satpura is the one tiger reserve in India where you can leave the jeep. A naturalist, a forest guard and no engine, reading tracks instead of chasing radio calls. Almost nowhere else in the country permits it.

Reni Pani sits at the edge of the park, twelve rooms and four tents, 130 km from Bhopal. Every night you stay carries a jeep safari and a second activity that is not a jeep.

Twelve cottages in three architectural designs, built with indigenous materials, each with a viewing deck, a lounging bay window and a generous bathroom. Four luxury tents stand apart, ringed around a perennial waterhole about 11 km from the tiger reserve, each with an outside shower.

This is the wilderness arm of Bhopal's Jehan Numa group and the hotel-family polish shows. Dinner is at the Gol Ghar, the dining room, bar and lounge around a central fireplace, and the lodge lays on surprise venues beyond it. Between drives there is a seasonal pool, a library and a massage menu.

Two nights in Cottages.

Two jeep safaris. into the core or the buffer.

Two non-jeep activities. A motor boat on the Denwa, a canoe in the core, or a walk. Satpura permits walking safaris; almost nowhere else does.

All meals and snacks. Dinner in the Gol Ghar around the fireplace, and the lodge lays on surprise venues.

A naturalist on every drive. The lodge runs its own. Its camera traps found Central India's first known Eurasian otters.