Satpura is the Madhya Pradesh tiger reserve where you can get out of the jeep, and Reni Pani Jungle Lodge is built around that freedom. The lodge deliberately favours non-motorised ways into the landscape: walking safaris, canoeing on the Denwa backwaters, cycling and overnight camping expeditions, with jeep and motorboat excursions for the classic game drives. Satpura's walking safaris are, on the lodge's own telling, possible nowhere else, and its camera traps have turned up Central India's first known population of Eurasian otters.
A lodge named after a berry tree
Reni Pani takes its name from a neighbouring tribal village, itself named for the reni tree, a berry whose abundance draws sloth bears and birds onto the property. The terrain here is the reserve in miniature: a seasonal nullah, stretches of teak and rugged hillocks. Twelve luxury cottages come in three architectural designs, built with indigenous materials and given viewing decks, large lounging bay-windows and generous bathrooms. The four luxury tents sit apart, ringed around a perennial waterhole 11 km from the tiger reserve, so the wildlife watching starts at your own doorstep, with an outside shower for good measure.
Your personal butler will arrive at your cottage to escort you to dinner and guide you in the dark.
Jehan Numa manners in the jungle
This is the wilderness arm of Bhopal's Jehan Numa Group, 130 km from the city, and the hotel-family polish shows. Dinner happens at the Gol Ghar, the main dining area, bar and lounge with a central fireplace, and the lodge promises surprise venues beyond it. Between safaris there is a seasonal outdoor pool, a library and a massage menu running to five treatments. For the more ambitious, the lodge's Satpura Under Canvas programme walks guests through the forest on a mobile camping expedition, and its Pachmarhi trek follows the route Captain James Forsyth, the region's first western explorer, used to climb the hills. We think it is one of the most convincing cases in India for slowing a safari down to walking pace.