A 150-year-old Portuguese villa in Aldona, reimagined as what its makers call an "art riot lifestyle boutique hotel", where the standing house rule is the good kind of absurd: everything is for sale. The art on the walls, the decor, the tableware, the furniture you are sitting on. The Project Cafe began in Ahmedabad in 2015 with an art studio and cafe in a pre-independence art deco bungalow, and its method has stayed constant since: handpick artists, architects, stylists, furniture designers and chefs for each space, never repeat them, and put everything on sale.
A gallery you sleep in
The bedrooms carry Goan names (the colva, the tiracol, the miramar, the chapora among them) plus a heritage suite, and around them the villa works as a full ecosystem: swimming pool, art gallery and event space, indoor and outdoor cafes, restaurant, art bar, retail outlet and lawns. It is pet friendly, and there is even a board room, because the crowd this attracts sometimes brings its work along.
The furniture you are sitting on has a price tag.
The rhythm of the place is set by its calendar rather than its concierge: art exhibits, culinary pop-ups, bar takeovers, performing-arts shows, musical evenings, fashion launches and workshops rotate through the year. The restaurant runs noon to 10pm, the coffee shop from 8am, the gallery and shop through the afternoon, the bar into the night.
Aldona, the connoisseur's Goa
This is inland North Goa, a serene village of greenery and heritage homes on the Mapusa river side of things, far in spirit from the beach-belt crush. You come here for old Goan houses, long lunches and the villa's own programming, and treat the coast as an excursion rather than the point.