"A century-old Portuguese home on the Zuari, run as a house first and a hotel second."
In 1919 Casimiro Honorato de Siqueira Nazare built a house at Goa Velha for his wife Maria Gracias and their five children, and named it Morgado. A century later it is Amrapali House of Grace: restoration began in 2014, kept the original structure, put local artisans to work on the details, and reopened it by 2019 as a six-room boutique hotel by the water with tropical gardens and five in-house dogs.
Six rooms, each with a party trick
Every room is named and none repeats. Creation is the 650 sq ft master bedroom with a garden view. Peace, the quaintest, keeps a free-standing copper bathtub and a private lake-facing garden. Compassion is a glass house with a 180-degree pool view from both the room and the bathroom, and the Moroccan Pool House is a stand-alone blue house with its own Moroccan-inspired lounging space. An outdoor pool anchors the garden, and a massage therapist comes on call.
A copper bathtub, a glass house, and five resident dogs.
The kitchen is the other reason to come: a slow-cooking, a-la-minute philosophy with menus written for each table. Cafe Amrapali sits on the waterfront with a Le Cordon Bleu certified pastry chef, Full of Beans coffee and Tea Amo tea from Assam estates, opening by prior appointment, which tells you the scale it prefers. Teatime happens around the pool with tropical birdsong; sunsets happen on the verandah with jasmine.
Old Goa without the crowds
Goa Velha sits by the Siridao bridge on the quiet, riverine side of Tiswadi, closer to the old churches than to the beach-shack belt. It suits travellers who want Goan heritage, slow food and a house that feels privately owned, because it is.