"A century-old Portuguese home on the Zuari, run as a house first and a hotel second."
This is the Goa for people who think they have gone off Goa. The house went up around 1919 as Morgado, built for Maria Gracias and her five children, and the family feel survived the restoration. Six rooms, each genuinely different: a 650 square foot master bedroom, a glass house staring at the pool, a copper bathtub in the smallest and sweetest of the lot, and a standalone powder-blue pool cottage. The kitchen cooks slow and a la minute, the cafe by the water does serious desserts and Assam teas, and the house will fix picnics at Siridao Beach or a guided run around Old Goa and Divar Island. Bambolim beach is five minutes away, Candolim a comfortable forty. A guest from the UK called it one of the loveliest places she had ever stayed, and the photographs back her up.
Some facilities and experiences may be chargeable.
The master bedroom, all 650 square feet of it, with garden views, a painted ceiling picked out in indigo, a sofa for proper lounging and carved wooden doors opening straight onto the green.
Their quaintest room, and the sweetest, with a four-poster, floral walls, a freestanding copper bathtub, smart TV and its own private garden facing the water.
A spacious, well-arranged room with a comfortable lounge area, bathtub, smart TV and private garden. Its sitting room frames the water through double doors.
The glass house on the pool courtyard. Arched doors give a 180 degree sweep of the pool from the bed and, rather brilliantly, from the bathroom too. Patterned blue tiles underfoot.
A private, pool-facing room under a pitched terracotta ceiling, with a four-poster, day bed, writing desk and smart TV.
A standalone powder-blue cottage with shuttered arched windows and a Moroccan-inspired lounge. Your own little house, right on the pool.
By enquiry A classified heritage hotel at Rohet near Jodhpur, held by the same family since 1622 and receiving guests since 1990. Frescoed rooms, a courtyard pool, a family kitchen with its own cookbook, and a Marwari stable the family calls among the country's finest.
By enquiry A century-old Shekhawati haveli in Churu, restored into a heritage hotel. Aquamarine stucco, carved balconies and muralled rooms, with the painted town and the desert on the doorstep.
By enquiry High above the ghats of the sacred Narmada, in the weaving town of Maheshwar, stands the 18th-century fort-palace of Ahilyabai Holkar — still in the family, and now opening its courtyards to a handful of guests. Nineteen rooms across six old buildings, three walled courtyards, a garden pool, and a daily table grown in the fort's own beds. One of central India's great stays.
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