"Eighteen rooms in an 1872 haveli built for Bikaner's prime minister and still lived in by his descendants, behind Junagarh Fort"
Bhairon Vilas Haveli was built in 1872 as the private residence of Maharaj Bhairon Singh Ji, cousin and Prime Minister to Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner. The house took its name from its builder and from a statue of the god Bhairon turned up while the foundations were being dug. Lord Hardinge, then Governor of India, made Bhairon Singh a K.C.S.I. in 1916. His descendants still live in the building, which now runs as a heritage hotel.
There are 18 air conditioned rooms, each furnished with period pieces from the family's own collection: canopied beds, gilt mirrors, framed portraits, painted and papered walls. Outside are lawns and flower filled water pools where breakfast and dinner are laid, and a swimming pool. Two dining rooms operate, Cafe Ganesha and the Tamarind restaurant, the second serving Rajasthani cooking such as laal maas and gatte ki sabzi alongside international dishes. A boutique sells local crafts, and puppet shows, folk music and fire dancing are arranged. The haveli stands behind Junagarh Fort.
A red-sandstone palace on the edge of the Thar, raised by the Maharaja of Bikaner in 1904 and famous, even then, for guests who never quite wanted to leave. Domes and cupolas, deep-carved friezes, filigree stonework and latticed screens, set in formal lawns. The Laxmi Niwas Palace is the royal house of Bikaner, now a heritage hotel.
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New Gaj Kesri sits just outside Bikaner proper, a 45-room resort the operator bills as a timeless retreat blending majestic architecture with the vast beauty of the Thar. It pitches itself at travellers chasing the soul of Rajasthan beyond the famous forts, though Junagarh Fort and the Rampuria havelis are barely three kilometres away. Days fill easily: an outdoor pool, camel rides, jeep safaris, cricket and kite flying, then pure-vegetarian Rajasthani thali-style feasting at Polki.
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New A lakeside hunting resort built by Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner, a heritage hotel since 1976 under the HRH group. Forty five rooms across four wings on 6,000 acres beside a wildlife sanctuary, with the remains of the private railway that once linked it to Bikaner.
Rates on request, usually back within the hour
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