By enquiry Goa
Rocky peninsula. Patnem Beach. Dolphins at sunrise. Casa Jaali is where you actually want to be in Goa. Authentic Goan architecture, locally crafted rooms, 35 meters from the beach. The real thing.
"The art of susegad, lived slowly in a forest-wrapped Portuguese villa"
Some corners of Goa shout. Casa Susegad does the opposite: it exhales. Tucked into the forested heart of Loutolim, in the sleepy interior hamlet of Orgao, this is a seven-room Portuguese villa that its owners describe, rather perfectly, as "a pause button on life." The name is the whole brief. Susegad is the old Goan art of being unhurried, unbothered and utterly content, and the house has been shaped around that single idea rather than around a checklist of resort facilities. If your idea of Goa is a beach club with a queue, this is not it. If it's a shuttered afternoon, a slow fan and birdsong through the trees, read on.
This is a villa, not a hotel front desk. The seven rooms can be booked individually, but the house can also be taken as a four- or three-room stay, which is really where it comes into its own for families and small groups who want the run of the place. In my view that's the smart way to read Casa Susegad: less a room you check into, more a Goan house you borrow for a few days, with a chef quietly making the day revolve around your table.
Each room carries a Goan surname or story rather than a floor plan. The Mario Suite is the showpiece at 935 sq. ft., named after the cartoonist Mario Miranda, whose sketches captured Goan life; it comes with a walk-in wardrobe and an open shower. The Rozario Suite (500 sq. ft.) leans into heritage character with modern comforts folded in. Then there's a cluster of garden rooms - Faleiro, Dourado, Machado and Barreto - each around 250 sq. ft. and looking out over the swimming pool and the hillock beyond. They're built, in the villa's own words, for "lounging, turning back time and disconnecting from the world."
What you *do* here is gentle by design. Mornings can start with a nature walk through jungle and grassland, or a bird trail in search of hornbills with a resident naturalist. There's crab fishing on the quiet Sal River, and a dawn boat ride from the cliffs of Cabo de Rama in a traditional fisherman's craft, dolphins permitting. Further afield lies the pristine forest of the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary. Closer to home, a village walk through Loutolim ends with a home-cooked lunch, and the kitchen will lay a private chef's table in the garden or fire up a BBQ under the stars. It is, unapologetically, a place that rewards doing less.
Loutolim sits in Goa's green interior, away from the coastal churn, which is the point. The beaches - Colva and Majorda among them - are a short drive when you want sand, but the villa itself is all garden, pool and shade. There's a restaurant leaning on local Goan specialities, a bar, and the unfussy comforts you'd hope for: room service, tea and coffee in the rooms, family-friendly spaces, and carrom, snooker and board games for slow evenings.
Slow travellers and heritage lovers over party-goers. Families and groups who'd rather have a whole house than a corridor of rooms. Anyone who has done the Goa of beach shacks and wants the other Goa - the one behind the shutters, where the clocks tick slower and lunch takes as long as it likes.
Some facilities and experiences may be chargeable.
The largest room at 935 sq. ft., named after Goan cartoonist Mario Miranda; a walk-in wardrobe and an open shower.
A 500 sq. ft. suite blending Goa's historic character with modern comforts.
A 250 sq. ft. room overlooking the swimming pool and hillock, made for lounging and disconnecting.
A 250 sq. ft. room overlooking the pool and hillock, for soaking in the Goan way of life.
A 250 sq. ft. room with views over the pool and hillock, built for quiet, unhurried days.
A 250 sq. ft. room facing the pool and hillock, for turning back time and unwinding.
By enquiry Rocky peninsula. Patnem Beach. Dolphins at sunrise. Casa Jaali is where you actually want to be in Goa. Authentic Goan architecture, locally crafted rooms, 35 meters from the beach. The real thing.
By enquiry In Aldona, inland North Goa, The Project Café has turned a 150-year-old Portuguese villa into an art-first boutique hotel with a pool, gallery, art bar and shop. Rooms are named after Goan places, and and, the hotel says outright, what catches your eye can be bought and taken home.
By enquiry A Portuguese house of around 1919 at Siridao bridge in Goa Velha, lovingly restored from 2014 by local artisans and reborn as a six-room boutique hotel. Expect a courtyard pool between red arcaded wings, a waterfront cafe with a pastry chef they say is Le Cordon Bleu certified, five resident dogs and the sort of quiet that North Goa's beach belt forgot.
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