Brijrama Palace

The setting

BrijRama Palace stands on the banks of Darbhanga Ghat, an enduring marvel of Varanasi whose architecture is a magnificent nod to the Maratha Dynasty. Erected in 1812, it is the second-oldest palace in the city — a regal escape perched above the sacred Ganges, moments from Varanasi's most cherished landmarks (Kashi Vishwanath temple sits around 800 metres away). No road reaches the door: the way in is from the water. As the hotel puts it, the best way to reach the property is by boat, taken from Assi Ghat or Namo Ghat — so you arrive at a palace the way pilgrims and princes once did, stepping off the river and into the courtyard. It is, to my eye, one of the few hotels in India where the approach is as memorable as the arrival.

Rooms

The palace holds six room and suite categories, each named for the elements and for Shiva. The Varuna Burj Suites occupy the semi-circular extension of the palace wall, with a 180-degree view over the city and river; the Maharaja Suite is a class apart, complete with a signature slipper clawfoot bathtub. The Vasundhara ('Earth') rooms are dressed with carpets from Bhadohi and Banarasi art, reached along private corridors that look out onto the flowing Ganga, while Dhanurdhara, Mahidhara and Nadidhara rooms each carry their own quiet reference to the river and to Lord Shiva. Only the Maharaja Suite and the Varuna Burj rooms look directly onto the Ganges.

Dining

Dining leans into the setting rather than a formal restaurant row. High tea on the Udayan Terrace is the signature: tea or coffee with local snacks and freshly baked treats, taken high above the river as the golden hour light settles over the ghats. For something more theatrical there is the Bajra Dinner — a curated meal served aboard a beautifully decorated traditional wooden boat drifting on the Ganges at twilight, the ancient ghats glowing along the bank. Non-resident guests are welcome to dine with prior booking.

The experience

This is a hotel that hands you Varanasi rather than shielding you from it. Days can begin with Subah-e-Banaras, a serene dawn ritual at Assi Ghat with a 45-minute Ganga Aarti, or with a complimentary morning yoga session and live classical music — sitar, tabla and flute — drifting through the palace. There are guided heritage walks through the old lanes, a palace tour of the building's own royal history, textile tours to the workshops of master Banarasi weavers, akhada (wrestling) visits, pottery and mehndi sessions, and a day trip to Sarnath where the Buddha gave his first sermon. Come evening, the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat is the great set-piece. It suits travellers who come to Varanasi for its soul, not just its sights.