"Twelve Gond-style bungalows in sixteen acres of forest at Narna, twenty-five minutes from Kanha’s Khatia gate"
Kanha Earth Lodge was built eleven years ago on sixteen acres of natural forest at Narna, a Gond village on the edge of Kanha's buffer, and the buildings take up less than five per cent of it. There is no neighbouring lodge and no through road. The Khatia gate, which gives entry to all four core zones, is twenty-five minutes away.
Twelve bungalows of mud, stone and old wood
The bungalows follow traditional Gond architecture: mud plaster, local stone, terracotta tiles and rough-hewn timber beams, with furniture made from waste and recycled wood, old tamarind and saja among it. Each has a day bed that doubles as an extra bed, a writing desk, a veranda over the forest, an en-suite bathroom with double vanities, air conditioning with 24-hour power backup, organic teas and a coffee plunger with fresh ground coffee, and organic toiletries in glass jars. Housekeeping comes twice a day.
Sixteen acres of forest, twelve bungalows, and the lodge's own jeep into the park.
Lounge, library and an infinity pool
The lounge looks over the forest and is furnished in recycled wood and Gond artefacts. The library stocks books on the biodiversity of Central India and has a screen for wildlife documentaries and the naturalists' talks. The infinity pool sits between mahua trees at the forest fringe.
Eating
The rate carries one cycle of meals from lunch to the next day's breakfast. Breakfast is served on safari, lunch is usually a regional thali, and dinner is à la carte from Indian and global menus, with breads and bakes from the lodge's own bakery and homemade ice cream. The organic garden supplies the kitchen, and the Gond dinner under a mahua tree, with tikkar roti roasted in camel-foot leaves, lamb booti curry and basil ice cream, runs on selected dates.
Beyond the jeep
The lodge books only private jeeps into Kanha. Around the lodge there are nature trails, birding walks and cycling with the resident naturalists, a sunset walk to a hilltop plateau with a view over the park, a picnic on the Banjaar river twenty minutes away, the weekly tribal haat, pottery and Gond painting workshops, a young naturalist programme for children, and alfresco and bush dinners. The lodge has adopted the Narna village school.
Our take: this is the lodge that sells the mainstream Kanha trip on quality rather than price. Private jeeps, a kitchen worth the drive, and a forest of its own at the quiet end of the park.