Umaid Mahal

Plenty of hotels borrow the word heritage; this one wears it on its walls. Umaid Mahal is covered in frescoes, jharokas and intricate carvings in the traditional Rajasthani manner, its interiors styled on the 18th century, and the family story behind it is the real thing. Wing Commander Bhim Singh Rathore (retd.) and his wife Arti, of the royal family of Borunda, started the Umaid group in the early nineties with just five rooms; their sons have since grown it to four hotels and service apartments, 161 rooms in all, and the motto has stayed the same throughout: *Athiti-Devo Bhawa*, guests are gods.

Thirty-five rooms, one family standard

The 35 rooms run from Standards to Suites, furnished by Rajasthani artisans, with enclosed balconies on most, European-style bathrooms, minibars, safes and study desks, and Wi-Fi throughout. Buffet breakfast is included, and the hotel collects you free from the railway station or central bus stand on arrival.

Started with five rooms in the nineties; the motto hasn't changed.

The centrally air-conditioned Taikhana restaurant serves multi-cuisine dishes under miniature wall paintings and carvings, with a gold-decor lounge bar alongside for cocktails and mocktails. There is a swimming pool for the afternoons, folk dance and puppet shows on demand, a doctor on call, and Ayurveda packages through a partnered Kerala Ayurvedic centre with transport included. The family's own tour company can put together desert and village safaris and onward travel across Rajasthan.

One kilometre from everything

The practical case is just as strong. From Bani Park, M.I. Road is about a kilometre away, the railway station and central bus stand under 2 km, the walled city 1.5 km, City Palace, Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar 3 km, the airport 12 km and Amber Fort 15. The hotel pitches itself as four-star comfort at modest-budget prices, and prices accordingly.