Boheda Palace

The gokhara is the giveaway. In a proper Rajasthani haveli, the carved alcove seat built into the window wall is where the house watched the street go by, and Hotel Boheda Palace has kept its gokharas and named two of its three room categories after them. This is a heritage-style haveli at 9 Lake Palace Road in Udaipur, beside the Gulab Bagh gardens, on a quiet street within walking distance of the Old City's sights.

Surrounded by parks and greenery it is like a small, calm and peaceful oasis in the centre of the town.

That is the hotel's own description, and the address backs the greenery claim: Gulab Bagh is Udaipur's biggest garden, and the lake and City Palace complex are up the road. The hotel also claims views over Lake Pichola and the palace complex; we would take that as its own claim until we have stood on the roof.

Three ways to take a room

Rooms come in three haveli-styled categories. The Haveli Premium with Gokhara takes two adults, pairs a four-poster bed with the carved alcove seat and an attached premium bathroom. The Haveli Deluxe Room does the traditional decor with modern amenities, and the Haveli Deluxe with Gokhara adds the alcove back in. The site itself cannot quite decide whether it is a budget hotel or a luxury heritage one, so set expectations at comfortable haveli rather than palace; in this quarter that seems a fair trade to us.

The rooftop does the views

The multi-cuisine rooftop restaurant is where the location pays out, dining under the stars with the city skyline around you. Below stairs the desk covers the full Udaipur toolkit: horse safaris, cooking classes, ayurvedic massages, guides, taxis, bus, train and flight ticketing, a doctor on call and, in the site's own list, an astrologer on request. A 24-hour front desk, internet throughout and on-site parking make it an easy base for a first crack at the Lake City.