Nadis

Ask any Kashmiri about Harwan and they will tell you it is green, quiet and close to everything worth seeing in Srinagar. That is where Nadis stands, at the foot of the Zabarwan hills, directly opposite Harwan Garden, the public garden at the edge of the village, and a short drive from the Mughal gardens along the shore of Dal Lake. In summer the setting is entirely green; in winter the hills behind carry snow.

The hotel describes itself as a modern Kashmir house, and the building keeps to that idea. The 18 rooms are large, airy and sunlit, floored in cedar, with carved ceilings and simple decor made from locally sourced materials. Each has a custom cedar queen-sized bed with good linen and a spa rain shower. The rest of the house follows the same logic: in their own words, they do not have a restaurant, they have a dining room; not a lobby but a living room; not a courtyard but a garden, and a big one at that. Evenings in the garden are lit with lanterns, and low tables are laid on the lawn.

Food is Kashmiri home cooking to its core, built on saffron, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves with the dried fruits and nuts the valley is known for. Vegetables come from the hotel’s own garden or nearby growers, and kahwa, the faintly spiced green tea with crushed almonds and saffron, is served all day.

Nadis also runs its own small travel operation for guests, led by local people who know the paths. It is not a tour company and does not want to be one; the idea is to show guests the wild side of Kashmir in the right way, with treks that start from the hotel’s doorstep. Harwan is the gateway to Dachigam wildlife sanctuary and the starting point for the Mahadev mountain trek, and the hotel’s team leads walks to alpine lakes and meadows. Bring proper clothes and, if you are going high, a sleeping bag.

The hotel publishes no room rates on its site; we are contracting rates directly and will quote on enquiry.