SUJÁN Sher Bagh

Sher Bagh sits where the garden ends and tiger country begins. The Singh family has helped guard Ranthambhore for fifty years, and their camp is the old India of campaign furniture, canvas and firelight, with the mighty fort rising out of the forest beyond.

The camp. Twelve tented suites, each with an ensuite bathroom and a brass bathtub. The Machhli Suite, named for Ranthambhore's most famous tigress, whose territory once included this very ground, pairs two tents for families. The Royal Sher Suite is pure seclusion; the Imperial Raj Bagh, a two-bedroom hideaway, is the finest address in camp.

The days. Game drives into what may be the finest place on earth to see wild tigers, with leopard, sloth bear and three hundred bird species besides. Ramble up to the 8th-century Ranthambhore Fort, a UNESCO citadel above the treeline. Learn Junglee cooking around the campfire from the camp's own organic garden, visit the Dastkar village where local women keep Rajasthan's crafts alive, and end the day in the Jungle Spa, one of Tatler's 101 best in the world.

Getting there. The camp sits at the park's edge near Sawai Madhopur, with direct trains from Delhi and Jaipur.