Kochi (8) · Alleppey (3) · Athirappilly (2) · Thekkady (2) · Kumarakom (1) · Munnar (1) · Nileshwar (1) · Poovar (1) · Vythiri (1)
A CGH Earth property in Fort Kochi that wears its Dutch East India Company history lightly: think spice-trail dinners, a shipwreck story at reception, and a genuine effort to tread softly on the town around it.
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On the banks of the Poovar River at the far south of Kerala, where river, beach and backwater meet, Isola di Cocco is a coconut-grove retreat of Kerala-style villas, a private beach, and a proper Ayurvedic centre on site. Its name means the Island of Coconuts. Days go slowly here: the pool, the sand, or the long calm of an Ayurveda treatment.
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A ten-room retreat on seven acres of rainforest in the Sholayar forest, its balconies looking straight onto the Athirappilly falls. A lone treehouse sits up in the canopy, waterfall beyond the treetops. There is an infinity pool and Ayurveda, and the quieter diversions are the good ones: tribal bamboo cooking, firefly watching after dark.
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Niraamaya's wellness retreat sits on a cliff above the Athirappilly falls, along the banks of the Chalakudy River. Rooms, cottages and private-pool villas, many facing the water, with the group's Ayurveda-led spa at the centre of things. Café Samsara handles the all-day dining; the Essence lounge bar keeps the waterfall view. Unusually for a retreat of this sort, it takes pets.
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A small boutique resort between the Kannan Devan and Bison Valley hills, in Munnar's high ranges, with fourteen suites and two pool villas spread across the Muttukadu and Kumbappara hills. Every suite looks over the valley; some add Victorian jacuzzis, plunge pools or copper tubs. The outdoor pool is solar-heated mountain spring water, and the tea lounge is called 300 BC.
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A 150-acre stretch of Wayanad rainforest the founders came across in 1993, six coffee-workers' row houses standing on it; today there are 36 villas and cottages, plus tree houses up in the canopy, beside a forest stream crossed by a swaying rope bridge. No TVs, no air-conditioning, patchy signal, quite deliberately. Kerala Ayurveda at the spa; the Malabar whistling thrush does the wake-up call.
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A resort set within a working tea and cardamom plantation at Vandanmedu, in the hills near Thekkady. The stays are the draw: wooden tree houses on stilts with wrap-around balconies over the plantation, plunge-pool villas, planters' villas, even a cave room. Kolumban, the restaurant, cooks old Kerala recipes alongside the multi-cuisine spread, and days go on plantation walks, jeep safaris and a look around the cardamom factory.
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The grand old name of the Kumarakom backwaters: a 25-acre heritage resort on the banks of Vembanad Lake, four times named India's Leading Resort at the World Travel Awards. Stays run from heritage villas with private pools to meandering-pool villas and the resort's own houseboats. Ayurmana, the Ayurveda spa, is taken seriously here; the traditional Kerala teashop is a nice touch among the restaurants.
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The Malabar House stands on Parade Road in the heart of Fort Cochin, opposite St Francis Church and a three-minute walk from the Chinese fishing nets. The building's record goes back to 1755, when a Dutchman named Jan Herman Clausing bought it; spice traders, tea traders and bankers followed, and in 1997 it opened as Fort Cochin's first boutique heritage hotel. There are 17 rooms and suites around a courtyard with a 4m by 8m pool, the Malabar Junction restaurant, Divine wine lounge, a Purespa Ayurveda room and nightly Carnatic music on the patio stage. The hotel is a member of Relais & Chateaux.
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Old Harbour Hotel is a 300-year-old building in the middle of Fort Cochin, built in the Dutch style with Portuguese touches. It was the first hotel of old Cochin, later housed employees of English tea-broking firms, then stood unused before reopening as a boutique hotel. There are thirteen rooms named after old Fort Cochin streets, with high ceilings and a view of either a courtyard fountain or the Chinese fishing nets, plus garden cottages with open-to-the-sky showers, a veranda and a private pond. A large garden holds the swimming pool and a stage for cultural performances; there is an Ayurvedic spa, a library and an open-air terrace.
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Tea Bungalow is a heritage boutique hotel in the Fort Kochi conservation area, run by the Dempo Group of Goa. The house was built in 1912 as the workshop and office of United Carpets, a UK coir and spice exporter, and was bought in 1956 by the Brooke Bond tea company, which renamed it Brooke Bond Bungalow and housed its senior management there. Today it has two grades of air-conditioned heritage room, Deluxe and Premium, each with its own garden and balcony, a 50-seat restaurant called Cafe du Mahe that opens onto the garden, poolside tables, a library and a business lounge. Rates are quoted on enquiry.
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The Old Courtyard Hotel is a family-owned heritage hotel on Princess Street in Fort Kochi. The house was built about 200 years ago in the Portuguese style, belonged to the Koder family, and was restored in 1999 with its original arches and pillars kept and the rooms furnished with antiques from neighbouring estates. It has nine rooms in four categories (Standard, Superior, Deluxe and one Suite) arranged around a courtyard with a lawn, a small pool and two tiers of white arches. Rates are room only with breakfast charged separately; check-in 1pm, check-out 11am.
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New An eight room contemporary hotel by the Parade Ground in Fort Kochi, in a building that has been a Portuguese mint, a Dutch East India Company house and an English plantation manager's bungalow.
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New Four waterfront cottages on the island of Kakkathuruthu in Lake Vembanad, reached by boat and built from reclaimed and recycled materials in the local style.
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New Eighteen palm roofed cottages in a coconut grove on the Malabar shore, built in traditional Keralan style with open air bathrooms. An infinity pool, yoga pavilion and a resident Ayurvedic doctor sit behind the beach.
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New A 175 year old ancestral house on an island in the Kuttanad backwaters, its nine acres holding spice gardens, fruit trees and fish ponds beside a thousand acre rice field. Seven rooms, the Manimala river in front, and a boat at the steps.
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New A bungalow on Napier Street built in 1668 by the Dutch East India Company and privately owned since 1874, 150 metres from Fort Kochi beach. Heritage rooms with separate living areas and colonial furnishings.
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New An Indo Dutch house with 150 metres of Periyar river frontage inside the Muziris Heritage Area, its colonnaded verandahs facing the water, twenty kilometres from Kochi airport.
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New A villa hotel on Lake Vembanad at its widest point, by the Malabar House family, with the Purity Kitchen, an Ayurveda spa and cruises on the group's own houseboat.
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New A CGH Earth resort built like a tribal village in a spice garden in the Periyar highlands, its cottages modelled on the dwellings of the native Mannan people and thatched with elephant grass. Spice runs through the cooking and the garden tours, with the Periyar Tiger Reserve at the door.
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