Brij Castle

Jaipur's hotel strip clusters around the Pink City's south side. Brij Castle sits the other way, on Amer Road at Kailashpuri, 1.5 km from Jal Mahal, which puts you on the road to Amer Fort before the coach traffic gets going. It is a small house by castle standards: twenty rooms in total, and the scale shows in the details rather than the corridors.

Actually, the corridors are the details. The pillars carry miniature-style paintings and an atrium opens four levels above the lobby. From the photographs, this looks like a building that was decorated by hand rather than specified from a catalogue, and we'd say that is the reason to pick it over a chain property at the same end of town.

Two rooms, two moods

Seventeen Heritage Rooms run 450 sq ft with king-size four-poster beds and intricate Rajasthani detailing. The three Historic Rooms are larger at 480 sq ft and take twin beds; the hotel's own line on them is worth quoting.

These luxurious rooms in Jaipur provide breathtaking views of the cascading sunset and the picturesque Nahargarh Fort.

Every room gets air conditioning, complimentary internet, 24-hour room service, a 42-inch television, tea and coffee making, a minibar, bathrobes and a proper shower cubicle.

Eating in counts here

Kesar Restaurant lays a buffet of Rajasthani and global cooking, while Flame & Fork is a live barbecue counter where the chefs grill skewers in front of you. The rooftop restaurant and bar trades on its views, and dinner up there as the light goes would be our pick of the three.

The desk runs yoga sessions from 5 to 7 in the morning, walking tours of the old city, cycling, a carpet demonstration and trips to the Amer Fort light and sound show. Parking is free, the travel desk works round the clock, and Jal Mahal, Amer, Jaigarh and Nahargarh are all closer than they would be from the old city proper.